A new season brings a fresh perspective on local food and drink. This week has given us a glimpse of the bright, shimmering technicolour taps-aff metropolis that Glasgow can be when the city emerges from the dreich, noirish, cinematic shades of winter.
We need to get out there and enjoy it. It’s entirely possible to keep the momentum going around maintaining an outdoor existence, an all-weather social life, even if there are forecasts of snow this weekend.
The council-led Spaces for People project, accelerated by the pandemic, has created more outdoor seating in the city centre and neighbourhoods. Ugly, utilitarian street furniture, but it is a start in the right direction. I’d still like to see the short stretch of Argyle Street that’s home to some of the best bars and restaurants in the city shift to a pedestrian zone and challenge the primacy of the car and parking bays.
Kelvin Way is now closed to traffic, let’s have it as a park piazza with street food, coffee vans and places to sit. There’s under-used space on Sauchiehall Street that could be used for artists, musicians and food pop-ups this spring.
Outdoor hospitality is here to stay, which will continue to make a mockery of the draconian by-laws in this city, dictating that, after two years trapped in a tenement, folk can’t have a glass of wine in a park when the sun is shining.
In the spirit of spring, and with the Easter holidays approaching, here are some dishes to try and places to visit right now.
Wild mushrooms, Parisian gnocchi, broccoli, aged Parmesan at Eighty Eight
The menu moves fast in this compact neighbourhood kitchen-with-a-dining-room. The focus is entirely on the best dishes that can be prepared with super seasonal ingredients. A pile of wild mushrooms sitting on top of Parisian gnocchi with some broccoli and shavings of Parmesan cheese was the latest concoction to catch the eye.
Roast Duck shawarma at Big Feed
The Govan street food collective is back with a raft of new traders, DJs and musicians to bring the sunshine to Clydeside. The aromatic roast duck shawarma in a gorgeous Turkish flatbread with fries, Asian slaw, cucumber and hoisin sauce is a show-stopper at this stylish, easy-going, dog-friendly, family-centric get together.
Hot honey chicken ciabatta at Outlier
A new arrival on London Road, their house espresso comes from Good Coffee Cartel. They are close to Glasgow Green and right beside Barrowland Park so get your coffee to go and order up some fried chicken doused in hot honey. A rhubarb galette or lemon choux bun for dessert. Right now it is a café and bakery with plans to expand the food offering and add in a gallery and wine. Go say hello.
Marinated haddock and blood orange at Gloriosa
Rosie Healey’s cooking is bright and fun and simple and joyful. Everything you could want out of a leisurely afternoon. The founding chef of Alchemilla continues to impress with her current project. This marinated haddock small plate is in demand.
A 99 ice cream from University Café
You can have your churros and your gelato. Sprinkle whatever Instagram-friendly mix you want over your ice cream. When the sun is shining, there will still be a queue for a 99 outside of University Café. Founded in 1918, they know what they are doing with a cone. Honourable mention for the tablet ice cream at Coia’s on Duke Street.
Surf clams linguine at Celentano’s
One of the city’s new Bib Gourmand rated restaurants in this year’s Michelin Guide, Celentano’s at Cathedral House Hotel is the ideal weekend lunch spot after a sunny walk up the Necropolis to take in the view across the city. Among the latest Italian dishes is a tangle of surf clams and fresh linguine, ideally enjoyed in their small garden with a glass of crisp, dry white wine.
Confit garlic panisse and terrace cocktails at Five March
Book one of the outside tables at Kelvingrove neighbourhood hangout Five March. Divide and conquer a selection of small plates, including excellent vegetarian and vegan options – confit garlic panisse, romesco, pickled cauliflower and almond crumb is a winner. Ensure you have a steady supply of cocktails from their quirky menu, especially anything that includes sake or mezcal. You can thank me later.
Mac and cheese at The Thornwood
Here we go for another season at the west end’s favourite suntrap. Vie with people in bands or people that look like they are in bands for some of the spare seats that are not occupied by Thornwood locals. Order up a macaroni cheese heated to volcanic levels and left to simmer. You will also get a mug of chips. It’s a treat any time of the year, but particularly at the moment.
I will close this rundown by pointing out that any weekend visit to Queen’s Park is enriched by a visit to wildcard diner Big Counter on Victoria Road. Whole plaice with sausage and mushroom chicken sauce. Club steak in stilton sauce with chips on the side. Roast mallard with pease pudding. The short, to the point, hand-written menu always has surprises and may raise an eyebrow but the standard of cooking here is consistently exceptional.
In other news, the Burrell Collection will reopen on March 29 after a refurbishment that began six years ago. The Pollok Country Park landmark will again welcome visitors to view its international collection. While there, you will be able to visit a café by Benugo, a chain that serves pizza, sandwiches, salads and cakes in some of the world’s best-loved cultural institutions. Now, due to a partnership with West Brewery, you will also be able to order a pint of St Mungo in the museum.
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